When doing my research on travel destinations, I had one parameter - Culture. I recently had my first visit to Europe and wanted to be immersed in vibrant color, emotion, cuisine, and smell. I wanted my senses to be lit on fire with anew. Naturally one would think to visit the spas in Mykonos, but my heart wanted a true awakening. I opened Expedia and Google, looking for the largest city I could find, and bingo…. São Paulo, Brazil with a population of twenty-two million people. My goal was simple, new experiences, and if I was lucky - romance.
After experiencing my First Friendly Marry-Go-Round, an attempt to bring myself out of self-isolation and make friends, I wanted all new experiences. This time would be different, no Waldorf, no Hilton, but a comfortable room in a native’s apartment. No fancy American-style dinners, but native candle-lit cuisine and roadside fruit squeezed drinks. The theme I wanted was for my soul to skip a beat, the type of joy that one can see on travel brochures, travel blogs, and the beloved insta. I had my itinerary set, SP, Rio, and Rome. Booked rooms, searched nightlife, cafés, and museums. Once I booked the last room, I felt my heart flutter. What was this feeling? I hoped to explore this while traveling abroad.
I did heavy research on statistics and crime prior to arrival and was well aware of the perceived dangers. My experience was not of danger lurking around every corner, or of pickpockets, it was of empathy and compassion. On the danger scale, I would rate New York City in the U.S. well above São Paulo, Brazil. Are there dangerous situations in Brazil, obviously. But, if you have common sense and are aware of your surroundings, then you'll be fine. The only dangerous situations that I found myself in while traveling Brazil were the typical ones, pickpockets that follow, unhoused people asking for change, and the lurking addict. Listen, go to any Mayberry town or metropolitan in the U.S., and you can find yourself in a worse situation. In July of 2024, Statista reported a twenty-four year low on crime in São Paulo Brazil. Meanwhile in NYC, the weekly City Wide Crime Stats report released a staggering number of 118,875 reports of crime. One does not need a college degree to do this math.
My experience in Brazil was that of happiness, joy, love, romance, acceptance, and the average person trying to make a better life for themselves. There are three different types of Policia de Brazil and most are there to help. I met and spoke with a couple of federal policia, and the concessions I received were all positive. Go to Brazil right now. Literally, pack a bag as you read.
On my way from GRU, my eyes lit with excitement at the views. The tall buildings closely tucked into the hillsides, the illustrious favelas that adorned the lower levels like a cascading skirt, and the native, evergreen vegetation. The drive into Centro from the airport is about an hour, which felt like twenty minutes. Admittingly, my head spun in all directions, observing the motorcycles that passed in between lanes of traffic, the types of motorists heading to start their day, and the view of the city that surrounds the highway. All directions pointed to a smile and an urge to jump out of a moving vehicle, simply to examine the native plant life and start my explorations.
After opening the door to my apartment for the next two weeks, I quickly put my Trader Joe's reusable shopping bag over my shoulder and set out to find a local grocer. A quick walk down a side street, and Siri said, “You have arrived.” It was a hidden gem of a store, all the fresh fruits and veg were sprawled out on a metal cubby-type table at the front. As I walked through the tight aisles, my eyes stopped on every package that I could identify the contents. I was in this store for about an hour, walking the aisles, picking up Brazilian foods to read the label and inspect.
During my two months in Brazil, I visited a variety of grocery stores, one completely different then the next. Some have kitchens that prepare meals and all the traditional Brazilian sides. My favorite grocer is in Higienopolos, called Pão de Acúar. The beauty of this store was the setup of the aisles, the outside dining area, and the delicious baked goods from the in-house bakers that lined the glass display case. The aisles are large and contain every item one could need. I visited this store almost daily during my stay in this area of SP. I could find my prepared food in the kitchen, the attendant warmed my food, caringly arranged it on a plate, added silverware, and a flower, and brought it to me on the patio outside with a smile. The coffee shop to visit in São Paulo is Fabrique Pão e Café. the avocado toast and cappuccino are to die for. The fresh flowers and outdoor atmosphere provides comfortable indoor and out for any conversation. It is a wonderfully peaceful coffee house to stop and smell the freshly ground coffee beans, literally.
The alluring culture is everywhere. The vibrant graffiti that accents the buildings are all around! Orchids and ferns line the streets and trees, music blares from storefronts, and the smell of food is at every turn. From the self-check-out systems in the grocery store, the wide-smiling cashier who spoke English and laughed with me, to the English professor in the second apartment I stayed in, culture was all around me. The cashier surprised me with a wide-eyed smile when I said, “Oia” stumbling to pronounce what Google Translate was displaying. With a smile, I would say, “Desculpe, pequeno Portuguese.” And to my delight, they would flash a flirty smile back and say in English, “Ooh, American?” These small interactions showed the willingness and love that another culture can provide. The simple gesture of broken phrases and compassion are rarely observed in the U.S., some Americans expect their native tongue, while cultures in South America display inquisitiveness towards foreigners.
In the second room I rented, I stayed with an English professor. He had a beautiful apartment that was adorned with local art, color, and furniture. The building was in Higienopolis and was one of the most spectacular. The elevators were separated for Service and Homeowners to go about their days without displacement. The floors of a white and grey polka-dotted marble, with off-white painted walls. Each floor of the building had only two apartments, and they were filled with windows that showcased the city views. I had many discussions on American politics with this professor. We spoke about why the American voting system was tiered (some of which I had no explanation for), the political environment, and other cultural differences. He and his wife would make dinners and invite me to accompany them, during which we would ask each other questions about life in the respective country, formalities of language, how I could navigate the city best, and diners with culinary deliciousness. I learned a great deal from this professor and his view of American politics and life. He educated me on how to properly address each sex in pronunciation, and how to order coffee.
The MASP is a museum with the most important collection of European art in the southern hemisphere. My native guide was a gorgeous man from “What Is Love? Pt. III” and schooled me on local artistry and themes. I would not have had this memorable experience if it were not for him and his knowledge of the museum. The native art, paintings, carvings, and gift shop apparel are a visual caffeine like no other I have adorned. The red-painted pillars are a sight to behold when walking into the massive building. At first glance, one would think there are multiple floors of indigenous crafts and art. It is one full floor of clear "crystal easels" and in a building designed to appear to float. The colorful paintings, plaques, and architecture are a place where my soul marveled.
The shopping is not American, it is Brazilian. I found two brands that I love, natura and Creamy. Besides the plethora of Korean skincare products, the country is filled with organic and natural products. If you can think of it, it exists in Brazil. Brazilians have an entrepreneurial spirit that I have never witnessed before. Each person has a specialty that they have cultivated and turned into a profitable portfolio.
Oh, the nightlife. Finding the words to describe the musings of Brazil is difficult. How do you summarize beauty, art, and soul? Each establishment whether it be a rave, hidden bar, or swanky restaurant had a story to tell, one just had to observe. Casa de Francisca has a hidden wonderland salsa dancefloor and bar in the basement. The beauty that beholds a tourist is indescribable. The stage, performers, vocalist, lighting, architecture, and bar are a small part of what makes this a wonderland. The live band performs, while locals dance to the beat of their own drums, or the salsa! The vibe of this place is nothing short of happiness, smiles, and laughter. At Bofetada Club you will find music, art, and city views. The vibe of this place is unlike any other I have seen thus far. The walls are covered in black light graffiti that takes you on a trip-like ride through a Brazilian lens. The music fills the dance floor and dances to the beat of the DJ.
Anywhere you go in São Paulo Brazil, you will hear music and laughter. The streets come to life with locals celebrating another passing week, a birthday, or just a Tuesday. The beer flows from the tap, the tequila lines the glass bar shelves, and the smiles adorn the streets. For more in-depth detail of Brazilian nightlife, read my blog titled "Safe Gay Spaces. Pt IV - Brazil."
Prepare yourself if you are in search of a Brazilian romance, mystique can lead to repairing your heart. I found myself amid a wanderlust romance with two different Brazilians. Each had his own distinct characteristics that I desired to hold. In “What Is Love? Pt III” I met a gorgeous man who had every quality anyone could look for caring, emotional, and drop-dead gorgeous. The second man in “What Is Love? Pt. IV” is a man of all men. I found safety in this man that I had never felt before, the sense of realness surrounded him, but I could also spot a hidden sadness. I would consider these two men the great love affairs of my life. I found myself learning from each of them, even though each was opposite from the other. The compassion and romance that resides in Brazilian men is unlike any other culture I have experienced. I felt them look into my eyes and see me as a man, a human, and a lover.